Gumbo
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There is no better culinary metaphor to help exemplify the cultural stew that is Louisiana than gumbo. Seemingly every influence possible is represented one way or another in gumbo. African, French, and even Choctaw are just a few of the cuisines that helped gumbo become what it is today. It’s easily one of the most divisive dishes in southern cuisine.
There seem to be as many methods of cooking gumbo as there are cooks stirring the pot. For the sake of time and just not wanting to make people angry, I’ll discuss just a few of my non-negotiables.
Tomatoes. They do not belong in gumbo. I’m sorry just my personal opinion. And yes, I know. Those of you who are fans of tomatoes had a Cajun grandma, aunt, or whatever who cooked a mean gumbo with tomatoes and it’s the only way you like it. If it’s your cup of tea, that’s fine. My mind will never be changed no matter what you throw at me. We can agree to disagree. That’s what makes this country a wonderful place.
Probably the most obvious tradition I stray from is I don’t use okra. This one I have a much less passionate reason for. I just don’t like it. I know okra is one of the most traditional and revered ingredients but I can’t help it. I think they are slimy little suckers who don’t belong in my bowl. Instead of okra (which traditionally was a thickening agent), I use gumbo filé (ground sassafras leaves). Again, just my two cents. If you wanna add okra to this recipe, have a field day.
As far as my proteins in this recipe, I use chicken, andouille sausage, and whole blue crabs. Another personal preference here but I find shrimp, oysters, and fish all overcook in gumbo. I like to let my gumbo simmer all day long and I find that doesn’t bode well for a lot of seafood. The chicken in my gumbo is not a hard and fast ingredient either. Should you have access to another fowl, e.g., duck or pheasant, use that sucker. Rabbit, I find, lends itself well to gumbo. I also like to throw my chicken (or whatever) on the smoker the day before. Cook, then debone and you can make your own stock. A nice, rich, homemade stock goes a long way to help this gumbo along. If you can’t smoke your chicken or don’t have time, baking it in the oven is fine.
Another source of contention in gumbo making is the roux. Some folks I’ve encountered don’t use a roux at all. To me, that is not gumbo but more of a chicken stew which is still yummy and if that’s how you like it, more power to you. But you should try the roux way just once. Some people aren’t fans of the idea of standing over the stove stirring a roux for 30-45 minutes which I completely understand. Instead, they use a jarred store-bought roux. I myself have never cooked with one but I have had gumbo cooked by others with it. It’s not terrible and if you’re scared of burning your roux or you’re a little pressed for time it’ll do. But nothing beats the old fashioned way.
Your choice of oil has to be a high heat oil (vegetable or canola) but sometimes I like to add some bacon or duck fat. Whatever you have handy, just make sure your amount stays the same. So grab your cast iron dutch oven (the best pot for gumbo making) and a nice wooden spoon and let’s get after it.
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Ingredients
- 1 pound andouille sausage cut into half moons (cut in half lengthwise then slice)
- 2.5 cups vegetable oil
- 3 cups AP flour
- 1 onion diced
- 2 stalks celery diced
- 1 bell pepper diced
- 1 jalapeno pepper diced
- 1 poblano pepper diced
- 5 cloves garlic diced
- 1 tablespoon kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 teaspoon chili powder
- 1 teaspoon gumbo filé powder
- 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon thyme
- About 2.5 quarts chicken stock
- 1 pound cooked chicken thighs deboned
- 1 pound whole blue crabs
- Dash of hot sauce
- 2 stalks green onions chopped
Instructions
Brown sausage in a little oil in a dutch oven on medium high heat. While sausage is browning, chop all your veggies. When sausage is done, remove with a slotted spoon and add the rest of your oil.
Add your flour a little at a time, whisking until all is added on medium heat. The trick to a roux is you CANNOT walk away or stop stirring. If you do, it will burn and the whole pot will be ruined. Stir your roux over medium heat until the correct color is achieved. (The color I tell people to shoot for is the color of an old penny.) Depending on your pot and your heat it should take about 25 to 30 minutes.
When the roux is ready, add onion, celery, and peppers. Use caution here. The roux is going to do some serious bubbling when you add the veggies. Cook veggies for about five minutes then add garlic and remaining seasonings. Cook for another five minutes.
Add stock, whisking well. Depending on your desired consistency, you may require a little more stock. Bring gumbo to a boil and allow to thicken (about 5 minutes).
Then add cooked chicken, crabs, and sausage. Simmer for at least two hours.
Add a dash or two of hot sauce then taste and adjust whatever seasonings you feel is needed. Serve over hot rice (or potato salad). Sprinkle a few green onions on top.
